“The desert, when the sun comes up. I couldn’t tell where heaven stopped and the Earth began.”
~ Tom Hanks
Cosmo and I are heading out today to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. We’ve been here on BLM Land in Why, AZ for a couple days now. It’s quiet and warm and easy and best of all—FREE.
{Note: A friend of mine informed me that when the town became a town, they decided to name it “Y” because it is where the road forks and forms the letter Y. The State of Arizona requires that a city have at least 3 letters, so they changed the name to “Why”}
There are various big rigs parked far enough away to not invade my space, and close enough that I can still see them. When Cosmo and I went for walks, if we saw anyone, they always waved cheerily. We haven’t ventured out to meet any of them. We’ll go to Organ Pipe for the night and then will return back here to BLM land tomorrow.
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Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is gorgeous.
We arrived just after 11:00. The young woman at the front gate told me check in is not until 1:00 but I could park and we could explore. She said we couldn’t check in before that because the park rangers need to clean the site. I stifled a laugh. The ranger was going to clean the concrete pad we were staying on? We moved into our site about 12:30. The reservation had our name on the post, so we knew the “cleaner” had already been there.
Cosmo and I took several walks. And I took a shower in one of the restrooms that has solar showers. The sign in the shower said to be cautious because the solar heating system could bring the water up to scalding. I got under it. It was just this side of frosty. There was a button to push and it kept the water at a fine mist for about 20 seconds. Each time I pushed, it warmed up slightly. By the time I did my final rinse it was nearing tepid. But, it’s 84 degrees here with blazing sun and no humidity. It took about 30 seconds to get warm again once I left the shower, and about 2 minutes for my hair to be perfectly dry. I made myself stir-fry veggies over brown rice for lunch, and I sat outside at my picnic table and ate. Cosmo lay down under the table, in the shade. He really seems to enjoy traveling and all the time he gets to be outside.
I looked on Google Maps to find a grocery store near Organ Pipe. I thought I’d pick up a few things on the way back to the BLM land. Turns out that the closest groceries are just over the border in Mexico! I’m within spitting distance. May have to go visit the (not so) “Great Wall” before I head back to BLM land in Ajo/Why, AZ
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Back at Gunsight Wash BLM land. I pulled right back into the spot I’d abandoned a day ago. It was perfectly level, and I had started to gather firewood in the firepit that someone else before me had made, so why not take it again. Ben and Lauren were supposed to come, but got a late start. They didn’t arrive until the next day, so Cosmo and I had an easy, productive day. I did some bookkeeping and got my Skoolie YouTube video edited and uploaded. You can check it out at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwGJ81te6VY&t=6s
The following morning Ben texted and he and Lauren were on their way. I met them at the LGBTQ+ event in December and they joined us at Quartzsite in January. They had to go back home to Colorado to take care of some things, but are not back out on the road and have joined me and Cosmo. They have two adorable dogs (almost as adorable as Cosmo) and they all get along so well. They are older, and very mellow, so that helps Cosmo to pick up some of those mellow habits. He has been off leash most of the time, just lounging in our campsite.
When there is nobody around, we play ball and he chases it, and then he and the other dogs chase each other. It’s so good for them.
Ben, Lauren and I mostly just sat around and chatted and caught up the first day. We were going to have a campfire, but the wind kicked up at sundown and so we all just went inside and I went to bed early. In the morning, we sat outside in the sunshine, drank coffee and just hung out. I so enjoy their company. They are very easy going and low key.
I’m making a conscious effort to eat better. Living in a van makes it very easy to take shortcuts, and if it seems like too much effort to grocery shop often for fresh food, or to prepare elaborate meals, then there is always a box of mac and cheese just minutes from being ready to eat. Boxed meals and frozen entrees are so simple, and (I’m finding out by looking in the mirror) not so good for my waistline. So this week, I’m eating a big salad every day, starting off with oatmeal for breakfast, and trying to incorporate lots of fresh or frozen veggies in my dinner meal. It’s not that hard to do, and really, it’s not like I have so many other pressing issues to deal with. I feel better already. I’m also working out. I have exercise bands. It certainly doesn’t provide the grueling workout I used to do at the gym, but it’s easy to do, and I figure even just 20 minutes a day is better than nothing. And of course, Cosmo and I walk a lot…at least 2 miles a day, often up to 5.
In the afternoon, we started getting a lot of honey bees by our vans. We then realized it was dishwater that Ben and Lauren had dumped by their van. The bees were thirsty. After awhile, it got ridiculous, so we covered the water with dirt (which is quite plentiful in the desert). The bees gradually moved on. Lauren and Ben wanted to take showers outside their van, but figured it would attract the bees back again. So Ben got on his “wheel” (electric unicycle—so cool!) and headed away from the road to see what was further back on BLM land. He scouted a spot about a mile farther back, and we decided that they would take showers and then we’d leave for the new spot. The bees could come drink their fill and we’d be gone. We did just that. The new site was great. Hardly any people around, and we had a huge spot all to ourselves. We settled in and let the dogs run. Lauren and Ben are Jeopardy fans, so we watched two episodes of college Jeopardy. It renewed my faith in the young people. Most of the people I meet in their 20’s who are on the road are pretty uninformed, often clueless. I know that’s harsh, but I’m surprised at how little they know. These kids on Jeopardy were jaw-dropping smart. I got two answers in the first half hour…among the kids on the show, they answered all but one. I was impressed. We took a break at 7:30 AZ time to watch the moonrise. It never disappoints. We watched and waited and the sky in the east grew bright in one spot over the mountains. Sure enough, the moon rose orange like a fire on the side of the mountain. It never gets old.
After that I went home and watched the end of Get Back, the Beatles’ special on Disney Plus. (I bought it for a month and had to finish this because I cancelled Disney as of Monday.) I enjoyed it. Cosmo was worn out from all the running and ball playing and he lay across my lap, snoring gently. That thrilled me even more than watching the moon rise. We are SO bonded, and now allowing him to be off-leash more often, and make his own decisions (coming when I call, learning the command “run to the van” and throwing the ball and having him retrieve it) has really put us on a whole different level of trust and mutual dependence. He’s an amazing travel companion.
I went to bed so content. The almost full moon was illuminating the desert, and I could see everything around me clearly. I felt so at home in the desert, with friends sleeping just 20 yards away. I drifted off to sleep thinking how lucky I am to be where I am, with Cosmo and Ben and Lauren who I met on the road. My life is simple, uncomplicated and fulfilling. I’m happy.
The days that followed have all been just about perfect. Cosmo continues to learn to be off-leash and stay close to me. I was always jealous of my friend Kent, whose dogs go on long walks with him and either stay close by, or at least within whistling distance. He calls; they come. I always wanted a dog like that, and now I’m getting one. It is so fun to walk in the desert with Cosmo, and when he gets a little far out in front, I call him and he immediately turns around and comes back next to me. We have also been playing a lot of “fetch.” He LOVES to chase a ball, bring it back and drop it at my feet, only to snatch it up again when I reach for it. He thinks that’s the best part of all. I have to admit, he’s quicker than I am.
Spending time with Ben and Lauren has been an absolute delight. They are my ideal neighbors. We all have gotten comfortable with doing our own thing.
When they are outside, Cosmo and I often go out as well. If they are quietly reading, or doing something on their phones, we all just sit quietly and enjoy doing whatever we are doing. We’ve had some really nice talks and are equally comfortable just being quiet together. Yesterday we took a long walk with the dogs, and explored the BLM land which seems to go on for miles and miles past where we set up camp. We walked, talked and laughed. When we got back, I was hungry and I went in and fixed Impossible tacos (one of my new favorite meals). Lauren and Ben fed their dogs, and hung out inside until Jeopardy came on. They are real Jeopardy fans, and I enjoyed hanging outside their door as we all tried to shout the answers (questions) before the genius college kids beat us to the punch (which was almost always-those kids were SMART!) The first night, Ben shared some flavored vodkas he got from his local distillery. They were pickle and pepperoncini flavored. Unique and surprisingly delicious, but even better mixed together into one shot. Last night he brought out some top shelf (maybe just ABOVE top shelf) tequila. We sipped it slowly. Sweet, smooth and delicious. I had been nursing a beer and the shot of tequila put me over the top, but in a good way. I felt so relaxed, calm, content. After Jeopardy, Lauren started to fix their dinner and I remembered it was just about time for the moon to rise. We’d watched it the night before, like it was some sort of monumental event. We could actually see the sky grow brighter behind the mountain, just as it does at sunrise (OK. Maybe not quite as bright). And then a tiny, piercing light poked over the mountain top, and it was bright orange, like the hillside was on fire. And then the big, orange moon rose fast and big and beautiful as we all just watched in silence. I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude to be here, with these people (and dogs) watching the moon come up and couldn’t help but say to myself “I Live Here!” (OK. The Tequila probably helped me tune into the beauty of it all, but hey, I WAS tuned in.)
Ben and Lauren went in to eat, and I went “home” to drink some water and settle down before going to bed. It was such a perfect day for me.
In the morning, Cosmo and I went for a walk. There was silence in the desert as the sun rose. It was so gorgeous, so peaceful.
Ben came out after a bit and we sat and talked over coffee. Ben always has music on, and it’s always something I love, even though I’m not familiar with it. We listened to bluegrass for awhile and then there was a local Public Radio station from Boulder CO that played international music (TerraSonic). It was riveting and Lauren and Ben and I all were sort of moving to the beat. Later, I drove into town and Ben came with. We got water, gas, beer and some snacks. The round trip took under an hour and we’re fully stocked up for another couple of days. Unfortunately, the small convenience stores in Why, AZ had no fresh fruits or veggies. I’ll have to pick them up on my way east toward Tucson on Monday. We came back and Lauren had moved to the shady side of their van. It was about 80 degrees, and they sat in the shade, while I sat in the sun. We all sat, mostly silent, playing on our phones, answering text messages and e-mails. I think Lauren was reading an e-book. What a lovely afternoon.
Lessons from the Road: I’ve realized for a long time that I go back and forth between two worlds. When I spend lots of time on BLM land with other van people, it is a shock to my system to have to go into Walmart, or even a convenience store when I get gas. People seem on edge. They are often rude, not so much to me, but to each other. It is common for a customer to be giving a raft of shit to the person of color behind the counter. Sometimes over price, sometimes over not having a certain type of chewing tobacco. It’s probably something that goes on all the time, but it is foreign to me and feels very ugly. There is also much tension over masks. I go with the flow. If any of the employees have on a mask, I always mask up. If customers are wearing masks (very seldom her in AZ) I too put mine on. I often get looks and feel as if there is often a pending confrontation over my wearing a mask. I feel like saying “Look. I don’t say anything to you for NOT wearing a mask, and putting me and everyone else you come in contact with in danger, so just back off and leave me alone. I’m certainly not hurting you by wearing one.
I have become so at home in the nomad world of BLM land, meeting other like-minded people, sharing campfires and tips on where to get water or propane, where the next free camping spot might be, etc. I thought this would hold true in National Parks and National Monuments. My overnight stay in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument let me down. The park is beautiful, and the cacti are amazing. The sites have concrete pads and are close to being level. They had solar showers which were lukewarm when I took one in the early afternoon. But the real disappointment was the people. Lots of folks my age, but in big, expensive rigs. They are not nomads. They are rich people on vacation, and I guess, having been away from that for some time, I wasn’t expecting it. There is a sense of privilege among many of them; a sense of entitlement. They walk through neighboring campsites without regard to anyone else’s privacy. I met several with dogs on hiking paths. One woman saw Cosmo coming toward her and her dog (Cosmo was on a leash) and she looked terrified. I said “He’s very friendly.” She snatched up her dog and said “He’s a puppy. I’d rather you stay back.” I complied and she scurried off. Another man walking a dog passed me. He looked the other way even though I was less than ten feet away. I said “Good morning.” He walked faster, never looked at me and continued on without responding. Such things NEVER happen on BLM land. There are sometimes big rigs, and most of the occupants stay inside and don’t mingle, but the one’s who do come outside, seem to know there is certain vibe, a kind of etiquette among van people and BLM campers. They always at least wave from across the way, or shout a hello.